"From us"-"da noi" literally translated-takes on an additional meaning in this little piece of the Italian peninsula, courtesy of Da Noi restaurant, and sent to diners in their two Staten Island locations.

Savory yet sophisticated Northern Italian kitchen dishes are served in a warm and rich red mahogany wood and lemon enveloped dining room in Fort Wadsworth. That Tuscan-inspired space was the latest to join the Da Noi family in 2006. The first Staten Island restaurant opened in Travis in 2002. Co-owner Edward Gomez says the goal is to serve "city-quality food at affordable prices."

First to hit the table are Da Noi's delicious signature sweet dough croquettes with Grand Marnier and powdered sugar, kind of like a gourmet zeppole. This sweet treat to start the meal is a favorite among regulars, and a pleasant surprise to newcomers, letting them know this culinary invitation is anything but ordinary.

Each day, Executive Chef Angel Rivas beckons a few specials from his "library" of recipes to add to the menu's vast and various offerings. On this Friday in February, we tried a tuna carpaccio draped over a bed of avocado, grape tomatoes, baby arugula, raddichio and endive dressed with lemon and extra virgin olive oil.

Rivas has 25 years experience running a kitchen, and like many living the American dream, started as a dish wisher and worked his way up to head chef. His eyes light up when he describes his favorites on the menu, especially the Rottolo Montanara. This homemade pasta-rolled and filled with spinach, ricotta cheese and mushrooms in a pink sauce and freshly grated Parmesan cheese-wears the house crown. Rivas' specialty is one of many he teaches his team of chefs to perfect. In fact, each item on the menu is his recipe.

Rivas has been working in the restaurant business with the Gomez family for decades, and joined Edward and his father Luis as their third partner. Together they own three Da Noi locations, the two in Staten Island (Travis and Fort Wadsworth) and the original in Bayonne, New Jersey.

Gomez himself lives in Rosebank and has made it a personal goal to help revive the downtown Staten Island area and spur the ongoing renaissance. "I personally grew up here, and I while don't see myself as the sole catalyst, I do hope bringing a sophisticated restaurant to the area will help the cause," he says.

Born into a restaurant family, 33-year-old Gomez said he always knew he would pursue his own role in the business. To raise the capital, he worked on Wall Street until one day the market collapsed and he watched his investments slide into a tailspin. From there, he recalls going back to his grassroots, taking out loans and doing whatever it took to get his foot in the door.

"This is where I always knew I was supposed to be. I love what I do and I do it with my heart. I work 24 hours a day, eight days a week," he laughs.

Because of his own down luck in a bear market, Gomez knows exactly how consumers are feeling the pinch of today's recession. "We have definitely seen a slowdown. People are eating out less, but they are still doing it because it helps them forget their problems...makes them feel special."

To keep diners in the seats, Gomez says he's taking a bite out of his own bottom line. "We keep our prices the same even though the cost of everything around us, down to the eggs and milk, is going up." He says his chefs still cook with luxury ingredients, they still make everything fresh to order, and he won't budge the prices on the menu.

He also does a lot of the legwork himself. "We do all of our own food shopping, we get our hands dirty when we buy new spaces and redesign them, and I am happy to say we have never had to lay off any of our workers. In fact, we are working with the largest staff ever right now."

"Oh," he says, "and I always make sure to smile a lot harder...to thank all of my customers."

Speaking of which, Da Noi has a lot of regulars. "We have people who come in here just for one specific thing and always order it. They don't even want to hear the specials!"

Hot on that list is the Portobello a Barolo. The mushroom cap is layered with fresh crabmeat and mozzarella cheese and drizzled in a "romantic and sensuous" red wine reduction sauce as Gomez describes it. It is one of their best-selling appetizers, while Rivas also says he loves to revive a summer special of grilled shrimp wrapped in prosciutto served with orange, peach and strawberry.

Another unique item that brings diners back for more is Da Noi's Vitello Martini. The pounded-thin cutlet is encrusted in Parmesan cheese and sautéed in lemon and white wine. Da Noi showcases this dish at many charity events on Staten Island, including the annual March of Dimes Celebrity Gourmet Gala.

Gomez says that while they do experiment with new flavors and presentations to match an ever-expanding dining palette, the foundation to his menu is simple and flavorful. "White wine, garlic, tomato and basil are our basic ingredients, and real staples in a Northern Italian kitchen."

When asked about satiating the traditional Staten Island taste for Italian basics, Gomez says, "We do make a great Chicken Parmigiana too!"

Together Rivas and Gomez laugh about old times and talk about the future. As you read this, they are already checking out new spaces to purchase, perhaps on the North Shore of Staten Island. They also made sure to add a catering element to the Fort Wadsworth location. The lavish downstairs party room seats up to 120 people (or 100, if you hire musicians). The night we visited, they were hosting a bridal shower. "We are booked so far in advance that these Friday night bridal showers are becoming popular," Gomez explains.

Along with an extensive yet affordable wine menu featuring favorites from Tuscany and a variety of Cabernet Sauvignons (Gomez's favorite), it would be just shy of a felony not to save room for something sweet; the Da Noi chefs whip up to-die-for desserts. In a rare and very gourmet move, each of the dozen or so items is homemade (except for the sorbetto). On that list is a light-as-air Zuccotto, a dazzling layer of Amaretto cookies dipped in espresso and topped with homemade ice cream. Rivas also gets excited when he talks about his Croccantino Di Nocciole, a hazelnut cream with zabaglione and frozen homemade ice cream.

The invitation from the Da Noi family is this: a neighborhood restaurant you can count on for an ambiance that feels like home and food that warms the soul. Mangia!

Da Noi , 138 Fingerboard Rd., Staten Island, NY

718.720.1650

4358 Victory Blvd, Staten Island, NY

718.982.5040