Have you ever worked for free? Mario Gentile has. The Executive Chef at Angelina's Ristorante in Tottenville says he would stop at nothing to perfect his craft. Born into the restaurant business, Gentile's father owned a successful restaurant called Mille Luce Café on 18th Avenue and 72nd Street in Brooklyn for 28 years. Mario learned a lot from his father, but was still hungry for some more hands on experience of his own.
After attending a 2-year college and completing a 9-month culinary program at the New York Restaurant School in Manhattan, Gentile still felt he needed more experience. Deciding to specialize in his family's native Italian cuisine, he relocated to Italy. Using the Michelin Guide, he traveled through Southern, Central, and Northern Italy and worked in the kitchens of the best restaurants...for free. All he requested was a place to sleep at night. He knew learning from the masters was the best way to accomplish greatness, and he spent more than a year on his culinary expedition.
It turns out working for free has more than paid off for Gentile. After stints at landmark Manhattan restaurants like Cipriani and The Rainbow Room, he began working for Angelina Malerba four years ago. He met the Malerba family through his father's cooking connections. Angelina hired a chef from Mille Luce Café, and when he retired, he recommended Mario to replace him. She says the thirtysomething-year-old with a great vision and even greater work ethic was the perfect fit. Angelina describes Gentile as a "young, innovative chef who is ready for anything."
Buon Appetito
Gentile typically finds it hard to contain his joy and enthusiasm when describing the succulent specials he prepares daily at Angelina's waterfront restaurant. He beams when he speaks of the fresh ingredients he uses in his daily creations. The seafood is imported from France, Holland, Greece, and Italy (in fact, the lobsters are blue in color because of the water in the Mediterranean).
After a tour of not one but two impressive kitchens, Gentile shows off a wall filled from floor to ceiling with cartons of fresh red and yellow peppers. He proudly
explains that he never uses pre-made roasted peppers. At Angelina's, they make everything fresh to order, even down to their own flavored butter combinations that are only used behind the scenes in the kitchen.
Once you are seated at the restaurant, hunks of delectably sharp parmiggiano reggiano cheese are brought to your table, along with homemade caponata: a sweet and sour eggplant dish served at room temperature. Gentile explains that while the mainstay menu does not change, the specials are always unique. He is constantly planning in advance to whip up new creations.
One of his popular appetizer specials is the Mozzarella Toscana, which is stuffed with those homemade roasted red peppers, asparagus, and prosciutto. It is pan seared, crusted with almonds, and served with a yellow and red roasted pepper coulis over baby arugula.
Gentile reports that another incomparable entrée is his Veal Prosecco. This veal scaloppine is served with sundried tomatoes, roasted artichoke hearts, and fingerling potatoes in a delicious champagne sauce. For steak lovers, he whips up a tender filet mignon topped with gorgonzola cheese, served in a port wine reduction.
Gentile says one special that patrons frequently return for is the Red Mullet. He first de-bones this fish, but skillfully manages to dry out the bone and place it on top of the fillet for presentation. The mullet is served atop a saffron risotto, with crab meat, manila clams, and mussels.
Another impressive seafood selection is the Red Snapper. Gentile takes the skin off and crisps it with his secret recipe, then serves the fish with a fava bean puree atop tri-colored orzo. The dish is presented with the crisped skin of the fish displayed beautifully on the plate.
However, the special Gentile is arguably most proud of is his Pork Pressed Belly-and it takes him three days to make it. The pork is served with blackberries and cashew nuts in a luscious blackberry sauce, topped with onion crisps.
Be sure to save room for dessert at Angelina's. There is a made-to-order chocolate soufflé adorned with vanilla ice cream and wild berries.
Another special dessert offered is the Sfogliatelle. These mouthwatering phyllo dough pastries are filled with sweet ricotta cheese and dried fruit and served with a warm homemade mocha Bailey's liqueur.
Gentile's menu at Angelina's been touted as Manhattanstyle, and the prices do match. But the ease of convenience-customers say-is priceless.
A Family Affair
"If you love your job, then you've never worked a day in your life," says Angelina with a grin. The restaurant owner says she is dedicated to treating customers and workers with respect and honesty. Born in Sicily (and the youngest of ten siblings) Angelina was named after her aunt who sponsored her move from Italy to America in 1955.
Like many Italian families, cooking was a tradition in her home. "Italian food is in my blood," she explains with wide eyes. Understandably, she specializes in Southern Italian cuisine. She describes entertaining in her restaurant the way she would at home: using her delicate china, finest glassware, and delicious recipes.
Angelina began her career in the Staten Island restaurant industry as a pizzeria owner when she opened Mona Lisa on Jefferson Boulevard in a strip mall in 1993. The pizzeria was very popular, and Angelina enjoyed whipping up new soups and sauces. The customers encouraged her to think about expanding her business-and culinary offerings.
Movin' on Up
A 900-square-foot space next to Mona Lisa became available, and Angelina decided to take the plunge and embark on a new undertaking. Angelina's Ristorante was born. It was an immediate success, and when another adjacent space became available, the Malerba family expanded once again, this time to 2,700 square feet and Mona Lisa Pizzeria was moved to the end of the shopping plaza.
With loyal customers and high demand for her entrees, Angelina decided to expand yet again more than ten years later. She says she acquired the present property at 399 Ellis Street on the water in Tottenville in March of 2006. The building was formerly Lily's Tottenville Inn, a mid-18th century wooden Victorian house. The Malerba family had high expectations for this picturesque location and decided to tear down the wood and replace it with steel. Angelina's dream was to make this space resemble an Italian villa. After massive renovations, their dream came alive and they opened the doors last spring. With spacious porches on all three levels, this waterfront restaurant makes visitors feel like they are on vacation on the Italian Riviera. The mosaic tile floor was imported from Italy and the chandeliers are wrapped in Italian silk. Angelina designed her restaurant to have just that kind of old-world, family feel.
Angelina wants people to think of her restaurant as more than just a place to eat a meal; she describes the ambiance as one that envelops an entire evening out. Patrons enjoy delicious cuisine, light entertainment, and are welcome to dine all night long.
The entire first floor is decorated with heirloom family photos. Many are from Italy and are of Angelina and her husband's family when they were young children. Angelina even has a collection of framed family wedding photos of each of her siblings. Her son, Vincent Malerba, is the coowner of the restaurant and her daughter Christina is the pastry chef. Vincent reports that it's not unusual for folks to come in for an 8:00 p.m. dinner reservation and leave at 2:00 in the morning.
Three Times The Charm
Angelina's Ristorante is three levels high. There are wraparound terraces with tables and couches on each level which overlook the scenic grounds and the Raritan Bay. The first floor always offers an a la carte menu for customers (reservations are a must on a Saturday!) The second and third floors each feature a banquet room, often rented out for events. Angelina's hosts small weddings, receptions after destination weddings, christenings, showers, engagements, birthdays, and rehearsal dinners.
Scheduling an event at this location cannot be a lastminute decision. The restaurant is currently booked two years in advance in popular months such as May and December. To reserve a weekend date during the summer, customers may need to book a year in advance to be guaranteed. If you plan to have an event there, tell your guests to go on an empty stomach. There are several different event menus to choose from. They even host events where each guest has a choice of 9 selections for their entree!
Mid-week Movies and Spiaggia Sundays
Co-owner Vincent Malerba describes himself as the event planner in the family. Now that this location has been open for over a year, he says they are ready to try some new ideas. They are currently adding a tent to the property, which Vincent says will be more like an upscale "tent-house." It will feature the same elegant chandeliers that appear inside the restaurant, draped in imported Italian silk. It will also have heating and air conditioning, making it perfect for functions a full six months out of the year. Angelina's reputation for delicious food and exquisite style is so renowned that the tent was booked for several events even prior to its expected arrival in mid-May. In addition to the tent, there are some other exciting changes coming your way from Angelina's Ristorante. Beginning June 3rd, every Wednesday evening features a movie screened on the lawn overlooking the bay outside the restaurant. This is geared to be a romantic evening out for couples. The movie will begin at 9:00 p.m. and everyone is encouraged to come with their blankets or chairs. While patrons enjoy the movie, there will be-of course-waiter service. Finger foods, wine and cheese, and gourmet popcorn will all be available for purchase. You only pay for food and drinks-the movie is free of charge. So, snuggle up with your honey for a mid-week date.
Every Sunday beginning June 7th, there will be a "spiaggia" party on the lawn. Spiaggia means "beach" in Italian, and Vincent says this weekly event will have a cabana feel; there will be outdoor couches on the lawn and cocktail service to bring you refreshing frozen concoctions. The scene will be much like that of the Great Lawn in Central Park during screenings or concerts, and its the sort of thing that conjures the "Why didn't anyone think of this sooner?" thought; why sit in shore traffic on Sundays when you can have the beach feel overlooking the water and eat delicious cuisine right in your own backyard?
Angelina's Ristorante, 399 Ellis Street, Staten Island, 10307
718.227.2900, www.angelinasristorante.com
