Though it has been nearly 80 years since the last vestiges of colonial empires packed up and left the South American continent, this collection of relatively new nations virtually all still bear the indelible stamp of their Dutch, Spanish, French, and North American invaders. Among those nations, Peru represents not only the greatest measure of international diversity, but also sses to one of the greatest expanses of tropical rain forest in the Amazon River basin. To us, it is one of the most remarkable places on earth, yet one of the most difficult to take in in its entirety given that very diversity. Both its urban and country residents seem possessed of a sweetness of aspect as well as a shocking open-mindedness as far as American visitors are concerned, a circumstance that makes an average trip to France or Spain seem a gauntlet as far as ease of assimilation is concerned. Peru is a wonder; a place where a traveler is as likely to see spider monkeys bounding from tree to tree one minute, ancient ruins the next, and well-heeled Japanese tourists loading shopping bags down the Malecon just a few hours later.

All airline traffic to Peru begins and ends in the capital Lima, though we humbly suggest that you make very short shrift of your experiences there. It’s a wondrous city in many respects, but it is a dry, dusty, and ultimately uninteresting place to those who have visited cities like La Paz, Buenos Aires, or any of the other South American cities conceived root and branch by their colonial occupiers. Better to catch a train or short hop plane ride to one of three critical destinations: Cusco, Machu Picchu, and the Amazon basin. The hitch is that all three destinations are a real trick to arrange accommodations for, particularly during one extended trip. Hotels vary wildly (to put it mildly) in terms of graciousness of accommodation, staff attentiveness, and cleanliness, so it’s critical to do your homework. We managed to do ours by employing the services of Inkaterra, a hotelier which specializes not only in high-end accommodations in Peru, but ecotourism as well. All of their hotels are carbon neutral, and nearly all are adjoining and/or sponsoring nature preserves in their vicinity.

Cusco
This former capital of the Inca empire is 11,152 feet above sea level, and that rarefied atmosphere prevails both practically and metaphorically, as this gorgeously-brooding collection of modern and colonial era structures feels very much like a populated museum. Cobblestone streets barely larger than alleyways are lined with Inca carvings and wall stones, though just a few feet later you’ll see the graceful spires of Spanish churches, from which hymns still waft across the plaza on most afternoons. It is an axis of exploration, and the most international city in Peru, where the people, the mestizo architecture, and local traditions reflect each of the chapters of the city’s 1000-year history. 
Cusco can be accessed by car or plane from Lima (a 45 minute flight), and by car, plane or train from Puno and Arequipa. The Cusco Airport is served by hourly flights from Lima or daily flights from Puno, Arequipa, Puerto Maldonado and La Paz.

Inkaterra La Casona—Cusco’s first boutique hotel—reflects the city’s mélange of cultures and traditions. This striking 16th century mansion is one of the first Spanish constructions in the city (occupied by conquistadores and their mestizo descendants), and is centrally located on the original Inca settlement near Plaza Las Nazarenas, the city’s main square. This national monument is now an exclusive hotel; Inkaterra has meticulously restored an 11-suite manor house, maintaining the original design and architecture around an open patio.

The hotel’s restoration effort is easy to appreciate at the outset; the patina of time and tradition, as well as colonial furnishings and original murals are all in evidence. Its 85 rooms and suites (2 Plaza Suites, 5 Balcón Suites and 4 Patio Suites) with open fireplaces feature heated floors and large bathtubs.

The hotel operates as a private manor for a small limited number of guests, and as such is not open to the public, maintaining its doors like a private residence. All facilities are for the exclusive use of in-house guests only, a fact that provides a welcome measure of safety. La Casona may be booked as individual suites, or as an entire Villa, offering a hub from which to discover the region.

The hotel’s strategic location at Plaza Las Nazarenas—next to the Museum of Pre- Colombian Art—allows access to the city from the moment you step out of the hotel. Walk the cobbled stone streets of the artistic district of San Blas or explore by car (ideally with a bilingual guide) for a more extensive exploration of the archaeological sites, colonial churches and living cultures within Cusco or the Sacred Valley of the Incas.
Inkaterra La Casona Plazoleta Las Nazarenas 113, Cusco. 51.84.23.4010

The Amazon

A visit to the Amazon rainforest is like entering another world. Two-thirds of all known plant and animal species make their home in these jungle regions, and millions more are believed to be yet undiscovered. Birdsong and raucous screeches pierce the thick air, but animals in this region tend to avoid humans, so opportunities for viewing them are variable and unpredictable. The flora, however, are luxuriant and ever-present, with tangled vines, staggeringly-tall trees, and leaves so huge they block the sun. The richness of the Amazon Basin also creates a spectacular arena for bird watching; more than 480 different bird species can be found here, including boisterous toucans, tanagers, flycatchers, and vibrant macaws. The average temperature is 89°F), and varies from 77°F to 107°F (December through March is usually the hottest stretch, with frequent afternoon rains). Between June and September you may need some warmer clothing, since the occasional friaje can drive temperature to 50°F.

The area’s Tambopata National Reserve is one of the last easily accessible virgin tropical rainforests in the world. 678,774-acres, it offers a wealth of biodiversity, as well as incomprehensibly-beautiful natural landscapes. Puerto Maldonado—also called the “Capital of Biodiversity” among environmentalists—is the largest city in the region. Overlooking the confluence of the Tambopata and Madre de Dios rivers, Puerto Maldonado is 1,312 feet above sea level, and 400 miles from Cusco, and a mere 9 miles from the Inkaterra Reserva Amazonica Lodge.

A haven situated on the banks of the meandering Madre de Dios River—and at the heart of a private ecological reserve— Inkaterra Reserva Amazonica offers a range of land and river excursions designed to introduce guests to the rainforest. This simple yet gracious, limited-electricity lodge made its name as a pioneer of low-environmental-impact tourism more than 30 years ago. Thirty-five thatched-roof cabanas (built on raised platforms in the indigenous style)  surround a main building and dining room, built of native materials that blend almost seamlessly into the jungle. Tree-trunk boardwalks wind through the property, designed in the fashion of a native Ese’ Eja village overlooking the Madre de Dios, connecting cabañas with a pavilion that houses the dining room, bar ,and main lounge, plus balconies for bird watching and stargazing. The Lodge is a tasteful and thoughtful way for those who both appreciate comfort and consideration to visit this incredible place.

Inkaterra Reserva Amazonica Province of Tambopata, Madre de Dios Machu Picchu
Considering traveling to Peru without visiting this mountain fortress and retreat of the Inca royal family is much like considering attending a performance of Hamlet without the main character in tow. It is as spectacular as you have heard, and more so.

The Incas built this citadel (3 hours from Cusco by rail) at the end of the fourteenth century. As generations passed, the fortress became overgrown by vegetation, and virtually disappeared from sight. Hiram Bingham, director of the Yale Peruvian Expedition, rediscovered the city in 1911; since then, it has become one of the Wonders of the World.

As if the soaring, cloud-covered towers of the city weren’t reason enough for a visit, the journey there from Cusco will be. The train ride there through the Urubamba River Valley—and its vertiginous, 1000-foot ascents on either side—is arguably the most spectacular rail journey on the planet, and finds its terminus in the city of Aguas Calientes, from which one can either take a bus or hike to the Citadel. Either means is going to be an interesting experience, as the snaking, winding, narrow road to the top of the mountain will raise the pulse of even the most rock-ribbed veteran traveler. It’s all worth it; not to worry.

In years past, Aguas Calientes was a peculiar compromise that had to be made, in part because a journey back to Cusco makes for a very arduous day, and the town itself was hardly a place where people accustomed to comfort would find respite. That era ended when Inkaterra opened its Machu Picchu Pueblo Hotel a few years ago.

Pronounced “The Garden of Eden” by Condé Nast Traveler in its January 2007 issue, the hotel is part of a private 12.3-acre mountainside reserve, located at the foot of Machu Picchu Mountain, near the Aguas Calientes railroad station. With the look and feel of a rustic Andean village, this retreat is laced with paths that wind past waterfalls and gardens and wander through wild forest. The 85-room hotel was built using stone, adobe, stucco, and eucalyptus beams to create an Andean village ambience. Guests follow stone pathways to their rooms located in one- or two-story whitewashed casitas; some overlook the orchid gardens, while others face the Vilcanota River. All casitas have a comfortable sitting area, a bath with Spanish style showers, thick alpaca blankets, and handmade wool coverlets on king, queen, full, or super king size beds.

Andean artifacts and textiles decorate the bar, boutique, and reception building; the main dining room displays scores of pre-Columbian relics. Charming features abound; among them a reading room, a lounge with fireplaces (almost always roaring, as temperatures tend to hover between 50 and 70°F, often chillier at night), the Andean sauna—an igloo made from indigenous bamboo and fresh eucalyptus leaves, and the more than 3 miles of ecological paths; where flora (including 372 native orchid species), birds (192 species), and butterflies (111 species), can be seen.

For more information or to reserve rooms or trip packages, visit www.inkaterra.com or call 1.800.442-5042.