It is not at all uncommon to hear travelers to Prague compare it to Paris. In a way, that is an apt analogy; both cities seem to be architectural time capsules: at least in certain respects frozen in artistic time. Both, too, share a history of a multitude of occupiers, conquerors and despots of varying degrees of beneficence or cruelty. To this traveler's eye, however, Prague maintains a lovely, brooding beauty that even the Gallic capital cannot match. Its sea of red roofs top a hulking yet lovingly detailed stonework metro center, in which 14th-Century churches stand unapologetically against ultra-modernism, and the whole makes perfect sense. Standing on the banks of the river Vltava (the locals generally use the German name for it-the Moldau), time seems to flow through the streets, affecting not only the way residents think, but believe. And the time capsule comparison is a decent one as well, given the relative historical isolation of the city. Few wars or natural disasters have ever reached here and so the architectural heritage has been beautifully preserved. The city boasts a particular multitude of buildings dating from the baroque period (early to mid-17th century); a sight lost to much of Europe that suffered so much in the devastation of two world wars. It is also know as the "Hundred Spired City" due to the many churches that adorn its narrow streets.
Much of the street plan-in as much as there is one-is medieval, and will come as a surprise (hopefully a pleasant one) to anyone used to living in a grid pattern North American city. Its center is a particular pleasure to walk around, with much dating from the 14th century, when Charles IV started the University and built the "New Town" area of the city.
Prague only established itself as the capital in 1918 with the creation of Czechoslovakia. It remained under Soviet control until 1989, when the "Velvet Revolution" gently broke the grip of the failing Soviet Union.
Nowadays, the city has thriving cafes, clubs and shops, where the newly wealthy and the inspirational window shopper can keep themselves amused for hours on end. The boulevards contain everything from traditional Czech souvenirs to the latest hi-tech modern electrical gadgetry.
Must-See Prague
Charles Bridge: built in the 14th century, this landmark is an adventure in numbers consciousness. It was believed at the time that odd numbers were lucky; the builders started work at 5:31 on the day 9/7/1352 (apparently even years did not bring foul lock). As the bridge is still standing today, there may well be something to this aged superstition.
St.Nicholas Church: When building work finished in 1756, Prague had one of the finest Baroque churches in Europe and it still retains that position today. There is a huge painting of St. Nicholas in the knave, and a wonderful bell tower. Mozart gave a recital here, and there are still frequent classical concerts throughout the week
Prague Castle: Now the home of the president, it was previously the seat of the Czech royal family. It is surrounded by palaces and features a fascinating army museum. The changing of the guard takes place every hour; it is quite a spectacle. Bring a camera.
Old Town Square: Built before the 12th century this is the oldest and most historic square in Prague, lined with many structures from the baroque period. Many of the buildings are brightly colored and there are many street cafes, where you can relax and watch the world go by.
National Technical Museum: Although unimaginatively (though accurately) titled, this is a fascinating collection of all things inventive. With everything from a railway carriage belonging to the Archduke Ferdinand, (whose assassination sparked the outbreak of World War I), to a working reconstruction of a working coal mine.
Vhsyrad Castle: Over one thousand years old and a former home of the Czech nobility, this castle has an impressive pedigree. Take a stroll on top of the ramparts for a great view of the city and river. There is a wonderful gothic church, a museum and a cemetery, where the composer Dvorzac (author of the New World Symphony) is buried
Petrin Park: One of the hidden gems of Prague. There is a rose garden, a maze and a gate to a well cultivated garden, but the real sight is from the tip of the hill. Take the short cable car ride to the top and there you'll find the Petrin tower, basically a smaller copy of the Eiffel Tower. It is an outstanding viewpoint and well worth the effort.
Wine & Dine Food and drink in Prague are both hearty (as you would expect in Eastern Europe) and affordable. You must try the dumplings, and the beer is some of the finest on the continent. It is also the original home of Budweiser, and they still make their own (some would say superior) version.
The hotels are more expensive than they used to be, but are still affordable (see "Best Hotel Bets"). The transport-mainly buses and trams-is very good. Although English is not as common as in many parts of Europe, a lot of the locals speak a few words. It is always worth asking directions, as city citizens are typically polite and friendly people. For the most part, every season is accommodating in its own way, although we find the hard winter chill a little overwhelming, and distracts from some of the sightseeing adventures. That aside the three remaining seasons offered this does, atmospheres, and colors of their own, and only amplified the mystery and history.
